Shimanami Kaidō: Seven Days Between Onomichi and Imabari

The Shimanami Kaidō — the 70-kilometre expressway that hops across six islands between Honshū and Shikoku — is often called the best cycling route in Japan. After years of hearing that, I finally set aside a full week to ride it properly. Not the rushed single-day dash, but a slow exploration with side roads, early mornings, and zero schedule pressure.

Day 1 — Arriving in Onomichi

Onomichi is made for arriving by train. The hillside town stacks up from the water, cats sleeping on every step. I picked up my rental bike at Giant Store Onomichi (highly recommended — well-maintained touring bikes, helpful staff), loaded my small frame bag, and crossed to Mukaishima island by ferry. Short first day by design: I wanted to find my rhythm before committing to distance.

Day 2 — Mukaishima to Innoshima

The Blue Line — the painted cycling guide on the road surface — is genuinely useful on the main route but disappears the moment you detour. I took a wrong turn twice and found better views both times. Innoshima's Suigun Castle sits on a hill above the town and rewards the climb with views across a sea scattered with islands.

Day 3 — Ikuchijima: The Citrus Island

Ikuchijima smells of citrus almost everywhere you ride. The island's gentle interior roads, away from the coast highway, pass through mandarin groves and quiet villages. Kōsan-ji Temple near Setoda is worth the stop — a private temple complex built over decades, strange and ambitious and unlike anything else on the route.

Day 4 — Rest Day on Ōmishima

I'd planned to push through but the morning fog lifted to reveal a flat, mirror-calm sea and I simply stopped. The Ōyamazumi Shrine is the oldest on the route and holds the largest collection of samurai armour in Japan. I spent three quiet hours there and ate grilled fish at a harbour-side stall.

Days 5–6 — Hakata-jima and Ōshima

These two islands see fewer cyclists than the central stops. Roads are narrower and the climbs more honest. The reward is quieter ports, local guesthouses where dinner is served communally, and sunsets that feel privately yours. The accommodation here was a minshuku run by an elderly couple — the best meal of the trip.

Day 7 — Final Push to Imabari

The Kurushima Kaikyō Bridge, the final and most dramatic span, crosses what's known as one of the most complex tidal currents in Japan. Looking down at the whirlpools while pedalling above them is surreal. Imabari itself is low-key — a working port city — which suits the end of a tour perfectly. No fanfare needed.

Key Practical Notes

  • Distance: ~70 km for the main route; my total including detours was around 130 km over the week
  • Accommodation: Mix of guesthouses, minshuku, and one business hotel — book ahead in spring and autumn
  • Bike rental: Available at both ends and on several islands; one-way rentals are straightforward
  • Best season: Late March–May and September–November; summer is humid and crowded
  • Tolls: Cyclists pay a nominal bridge toll (around ¥500 total for the full route)

The Shimanami Kaidō deserves its reputation — but only if you slow down enough to earn it.